Almost as soon as you leave the plains of Kathgodam, the sudden cool air that breezes in through your car window brings wind of the paradise that awaits you in the midst of the mountains. Within a short while of your first sighting of the hills, you arrive in Naukucjiyatal, among the loveliest of the lakes in Kumaon’s lake district, a beautiful blue expanse of water cradled in a bowl of terraced green hill Local legend has it that anyone who can sight the nine corners of Nau-Kuchia-Tal all at once will find their way to heaven. Given the sheer size of the tal, fat chance anyone can do it, but on your walk over the hills that cradle the lake, it’s worth trying it for lark. In any case , this azure blue crystal of a lake, set amid gorgeous oak and pine forests, make it easy to make-believe you’re in heaven on earth.And, if you’re lucky enough to be here at the right time, a glimpse of the full moon reflected in the shimmering tal is in itself a sip of nirvana.
The road ends at Naukuchiatal. Though its cousins Bhimtal and Sattal are just a short drive away, you may find you never want to leave Naukuchia’s verdant acres. Lose yourself in a boat on the waters of the lake, where no one, except perhaps your boatman, can reach you.
Walk aimlessly through the deep woods. Tune your ears to bird calls. Switch off your cell phone.
THINGS TO SEE AND DO
Naukuchiatal has quite a few resorts and is used to tourists, but it can fool you into believing you’re the only one here, as you wander the paths around the lake, with only your thoughts for company. Discover the tal by
boat, or even by gliding through the
nippy mountain air.
The lake Boating in Naukuchiatal is quite magical, particularly if you choose to do so in the early morning or afternoon, before the tourists from Bhimtal arrive. It costs Rs 40-150 for a 30-min ride in a boat or shikara. If you are up to it, you can row or pedal yourself. A good thing to do is to hire a boat by the hour, row it to a quiet spot by the edge of the lake and have a picnic by the waters.
The tal walk
The 32-km walk around the periphery of the lake takes in all of Naukuchiatal, winding past
the jetty, the resorts, pretty country
cottages and the tiny temple on the
lake’s shore. In parts the trail is quiet with
secluded spots in which you’ll hear a
variety of bird calls. The waters of the lake
attract many species of birds including
kingfishers, swallows and tits.
On three separate visits to Naukuchiatal over as many years, I have always been rewarded with a sight of the beautiful long-tailed Paradise flycatcher. Do take a pair of binoculars and a good bird encyclopedia or two along.
If you walk down the Bhimtal Road,you will come
to the Aepan Shop (Tel: 05942-247178;
Timings: 8 am-8 pm) at Triveni House,
which showcases ritual art of Uttarakhand
on clothes, fabric, gift boxes and carved
wooden trays.
Vaishno Devi Mandir
A giant statue of Lord Hanuman at the entrance of this tiny town is part of the Mata Vaishno Devi Temple, which always has a line of devotees and tourists outside, waiting for their chance to enter the temple through an artificial tunnel leading into the cavern-like temple.
High adventure
The action-seeking adventurer is equally at home in Naukuchiatal. The big attraction here is paragliding. Pandey-gaon, a hilltop
meadow that serves as a launching pad, is
just above Naukuchiatal. Take the diversion going up and right from the road
back to Bhimtal to get there. Reach early
as paragliding flights are available on a
first-come-first-served basis. Be sure
you have the heart for this the idea of
being in the air is thrilling alright,
but some lose their nerve when their feet
are suddenly swept off the ground. That
apart, you should know
that there have been accidents while paragliding at Naukuchiatal due to the inexperience of the operators. Always check safety procedures and the credibility of the
operators. If you paraglide here, it is
entirely at your own risk.
Angling, though, is perfectly safe and a soothing acitivity, whether you catch one of the fat mahseer that swim within these waters, or not. The resorts here will cook your catch for you if you get lucky. Most people
just throw a line into the water, but you
ought to get a permit from the Bhimtal
Fishery Department, a short distance
away.Angling charges Rs 15 per rod
Bhimtal (4 km)
Earlier one of the largest lakes in Kumaon, unchecked development is forcing the waters of Bhimtal to recede every year. But the paths through the hills around can still offer a peaceful
commune with nature. The Bhimeshwar Mahadev Temple (Timings: 5 am-7 pm) dominates the landscape here. The Kumaon Umang Mahila
Samiti outlet on the Ranibagh Road offers
a wide range of woollens at great prices.
It also has delectable home-made pickles. There is also the privately owned Folk Culture Museum (Tel: 247100;
Timings: 10 am-5 pm)
at Mehragaon on the Bhowali Road, which showcases a collection of rock art curated by Dr Yashodhar Matpal. Not least, you can go boating on Bhimtal too.
