As you drive past the noise and crowds of Nainital and inch across the Budlakote Valley and closer to the sleepy Himalayan village of Pangot, you wonder how two worlds could be so close and yet so far apart. Pangot could be just another non-descript Kumaoni hamlet surrounded by verdant forests of oak, pine, cedar and rhododendron. Yet this village, so tiny that its beautifully painted post office also doubles up as a tea stall, has become an important stopover on the bird watchers’ trail in the Kumaon Himalaya.
The local economy of a handful of families caters avidly to nature lovers. Laughing thrushes and common hoopoes are pointed out to visitors in rudimentary English, and the number of guest houses catering to bird watchers increases regularly. Yet, Pangot retains an
immense charm and is a beautiful getaway, perfect for love-smitten romantics, lovelorn poets searching for inspiration Just overworked professionals looking for a break.
At Village Pangot, there is very little by means of entertainment for travellers and locals alike, so the occasional odd visitor creates much excitement. During my stay, an Itinerant bull was the centre of much discourse in Pangot’s tea shops It had apparently been dedicated at one of the local Shiva temples and then abandoned making its way wherever it pleased. People in the village kept their distance from the bull, speculating wildly about what it might suddenly be capable of. The bull proved quite harmless ,except that it occasionally sheltered under the roof of its favourite verandah on the main street in the village, where local tea drinkers animatedly alerted others to its presence. The wandering bull attained in a very short while quite a celebrity status in this tiny mountain community.
Orientation
The Kilbury Road leading steeply and windingly up the hill from Nainital and past the Kilbury Forest to Pangot passes right through the village. The road then branches out to the guest houses, which have birdwatching trails of their own, and past them further to the villages of Baggar and Pali, about 2 km ahead. The Tanki Road branches off the main Kilbury Road and into the forests nearby. Pangot is centred at the intersection of these roads, and all are perfect for long walks. The intersection is the heart of Pangot, with its indispensable temple, next to the delightfully red post office.
Things to See & Do
Pangot has several excellent bird watching trails, a few of which stem off from the guest houses, a few off the two main roads, and a few that are carved by adventurous bird watchers for themselves. Most guest houses can arrange for seasoned guides to accompany you on anything from minor bird watching expeditions to major mountaineering feats. They may advise you to stick to the main roads as it is simple for leeches to attach themselves to you, especially in the wet season. But it is also simple to view very little if you take the beaten track.
Walking Trails
The main Kilbury Road that leads from Pangot back to Nainital via Kilbury is an obvious choice for a walk, but the Tanki Road that bifurcates from the main road and through the Kilbury Forest is a much better option, especially if you can tip the guard to let you into the forest area. Or just tell your guest house to wangle this for you. This is an area that has over 150 species of birds, where you can spot anything from the tiny Eurasian treecreeper to the beautiful spotted forktail, the snarly lammergeier and Himalayan griffon to the starkly coloured scarlet finch, and the exotic khaleej pheasant to the canary flycatcher. Other trails include the one that leads towards the now-renamed Naina Peak (8,563 ft), long called Cheena Peak, which then earned disrepute when that name got corrupted to China Peak! From
the peak you get great views of the Garhwal Himalaya, including Nanda Devi. This is a comfortable trekking option, but do ask for a guide at your guest house if you’re unsure about heading out on your own or of finding your way back.
The Road leading to Baggar & pali Villages is also wonderful for a long walk, and after a certain point downhill there is a noticeable rise in the temperature. Baggar and Pali are still traditionally Kumaoni in ways that Pangot is leaving behind, and might be worth a stroll if you
fancy learning about the local culture first hand. Another trail leads to the tiny village of Guggu Khan.
TIP Carry a packed lunch and a bottle of water in your daypack.
