Kashmir’s loss is Uttaranchal’s gain,” confessed a former skiing champion of Kashmiri origin rather ruefully. And indeed, since most of us don’t fancy meeting one of Osama’s lieutenants on the slopes of Khilanmarg, let us be grateful to the Indian babu who decided to develop the little known pasture of Auli into a winter skiing resort in the late eighties.
Auli isn’t large: the entire skiing area is about 5-7 km, but since it’s located way up between 9,500 and 10,500 ft, it commands excellent views of the surrounding peaks which soar well over 23,000 ft. The air is cold, fresh and scented with the aroma of pine; the skies are azure blue.
This may not be Aspen or St Moritz, but hey, this is India of 50-degrees-in- the-shade fame, and it’s pretty miraculous that we have slopes with wonderful, soft powdery snow at all. And the Uttarakhandis are trying: a spanking new cable car ropeway traverses 4 km up the hill from Joshimath, transporting you over the tops of oak and fir trees to Auli. And when you swoop down the slopes, you don’t have to worry about the trudge back up: the baby slopes have a 1,640-foot ski lift, and the advanced slopes have a 2,620-foot chair lift to haul you to the top. So forget another winter at the beach and head north instead. After a week on the slopes you will be confident enough to whiz down a mountain and execute a fancy parallel turn. Skiing is wonderful exercise but be warned, it’s dangerous-your tummy disappears, your muscles tone up, your skin glows with good health. It could become addictive.
THINGS TO SEE AND DO
Aull is not for the meek-hearted or the lazy. Unlike other winter resorts, which offer tobogganing and sledding, there are only three things to do: ski, ski and ski. But there are other magical moments, like watching the dawn break behind Nanda Devi, watching the sky open up its bounty at night, and the snowflakes floating gently, soundlessly to earth. Yes, Auli can be balm to a city-wearied heart.
Learning to ski
The Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam(GMVN) offers
7-day non-certificate and 14-day
certificate courses for the beginner from
January to March every year. Alternatively, you could learn privately from
the freelance instructors hanging about the slopes. If you’re staying at the Cliff
Top Resort and are short on time, try their
instructors. The Rs 500 for the equipment
hire and instruction, plus the Rs 200 tip
was reasonable, considering the progress I
made in one day. Fees for the course include boarding, lodging (shared accommodation), ski equipment,
lift and training. Economy and regular
categories will be accommodated at GMVN Auli, and deluxe at the Cliff Top
Resort with buffet meals.
You can also opt for per day charges if you
don’t wish to enroll in the course. Take the kids along, bung a pair of skis onto their little feet and watch them fly after the initial hesitation. Plus, there’s snowmen and snow castles to be built.
Per day fee Skis Adults Rs 475, child Rs 250, lessons Rs 125-175 per day, gloves Rs 175, goggles Rs 100. The range indicates half- and full-day fees 7-day course fee Indians Rs 4,710% Foreigners Rs 5,890 14-day course fee Indians Rs 9,440 Foreigners Rs
11,800
TIP Course rates for Indian couples are the same as for one foreigner
Joshimath
The great sage Adi Shankaracharya is supposed to have wandered into Joshimath and gained
enlightenment here. Alas, it is hard to
imagine this treeless town as a spiritual
seat of any importance. Still, check out
the Narsingh and Garuda temples, the
Shankaracharya Math, and the amar kalp tree,which is believed to be over 2,500
years old. Drive down to the hot springs
of Tapovan just 14 km away from Joshimath
and 32 km from Auli. Joshimath is
also the base for the pilgrimage to the sacred temple of Badrinath, part of the Char Dham yatra.
What to pack for skiing
Make sure that you have a minimum level of
fitness to reduce chances of injuries while
skiing at Auli. Train for at least a month in
the gym, strengthening the quadriceps,
calves, abs and arms. Else, run or jog
for 20 minutes thrice a week for a month.
Dressing warm
Your body is best kept warm using many layers. Wear warm Long Johns under your clothes and windproof pants and an anorak on top. Pack a pair of woollen gloves that can be worn inside the ski mittens. It’s essential to start the day with dry socks inside warm, dry boots.
Protecting your head
The body loses heat through the head, so cover it up. Make sure your cap covers your ears
Protecting your eyes
Snow blindness is painful. Protect yourselves and the kids by always wearing sunglasses. You’ll need the extra protection and visibility enhancement of goggles, which you can rent from GMVN.
Protecting your skin
At 9,500-10,500 ft the air is thin and lets a greater quantum of UV rays enter the atmosphere.
Added to this is the bounce and glare of snow. Apply liberal quantities of sunblock and high-SPF lip balm Re-hydration At high altitudes, drink plenty of water or fruit juice, but avoid alcohol and caffeine. Carry a water bottle. Never eat snow it could contain harmful bacteria.
